Why does changing [...]]]>

Chang grain and hay gradually over the course of at least a week

Sudden changes in feed can upset your horse’s digestive system. According to a Webinar given by SmartPak, 10 Guidelines for Smarter Feeding, changing a horses hay suddenly can increase the risk of colic 10 times; other changes in feed raise the risk of colic 5 times.

Why does changing feed have the potential to affect horses so significantly? It’s all has to do with your horse’s intestinal bacteria. A horse ferments its feed in its hind gut and develops bacteria that is specific to what it is being fed. The microbes break down the feed that was not digested in the small intestine. When you suddenly change feeds — even hay — the horse may not be able to adequately digest the new feed because it lacks the proper microbes; in addition, the existing bacteria can die off, releasing acids and endotoxins that can disturb the gut environment and cause colic, or even potentially laminitis.

• Ideally you want to introduce all new feed gradually to give your horse’s digestive system the chance to adjust.
• To a degree, it depends on how much you feed your horse — if you are feeding two pounds or less of a concentrate, you can change over at the rate of 1/2 pound every two to three days. In other words, you add 1/2 pound of the new feed to your horse’s rations the first day. On the third or fourth day, add one pound of the new feed, until you are completely switched over.
• Horses that are fed larger amounts of grain can be switched over on a similar schedule using 25% of the ration.
• If your horse is prone to stomach upset or colic, you can switch more gradually. Some people recommend switching over 25% of the ration and feeding that amount for the entire week before adding an additional 25%.
• With hay, it is also ideal to add new loads of hay gradually, especially when going from a lower-nutrient first cutting to a higher nutrient second cutting. If you do not have the opportunity to switch the hay gradually, you could consider soaking the hay before feeding.

Tips

• Whenever you buy a horse, ask the owner for enough grain and hay to allow a gradual shift to the horse’s new rations.
• Feeding a digestive supplement with probiotics can also help your horse through feed changes. Some complete feeds now include a probiotic.

Horses can get excited when they are turned out. They often run off and kick out in exuberance. They might not be trying to kick you, but it [...]]]>

Some horses get excited when they are turned out. You don't want to be near those heels.

Turning out your horse shouldn’t be dangerous. But way too many people get injured when they turn out their horses because they forget a few basic rules.

Horses can get excited when they are turned out. They often run off and kick out in exuberance. They might not be trying to kick you, but it happens.

To make sure that you reduce the drama and stay safe you should always:

• Lead your horse into the paddock.
• Turn your horse around so that he is facing you.
• Remove the lead rope or halter while your horse is still facing you.
• Don’t chase your horse off or encourage him to run.

Tips

• Always wear gloves when you are leading a horse. If your horse takes off suddenly the gloves will give your more grip and protect your hands from rope burn
• Never wrap a lead rope around your hand. If your horse takes off you could be dragged or otherwise injured.
• If you are turning your horse out in a field where other horses are already loose, don’t let them crowd around you as you turn your horse out. You don’t want to be caught in between horses if they start to play.

I know that many people like to oil tack. In fact, I’m amazed by the different types of oil that people put on their tack: olive oil, [...]]]>

I personally like to use Passier Lederbalsam on dry tack. It works wonders.

When tack gets neglected and dried out, it can be daunting. I hate to throw away useable stuff, but how can you restore dried tack and old leather?

I know that many people like to oil tack. In fact, I’m amazed by the different types of oil that people put on their tack: olive oil, neatsfoot oil, hydrophane oil, mink oil, lexol, l’ve even heard of people using butter! At the same time there are a host of people telling you NOT to use the same products. Who should you believe?
I’ve never been a big fan of oil. Years ago a saddle fitter told me to avoid saddles that have been over oiled because the oil can break down the fibers in the leather. A little research into the structure of leather explains why.

When leather comes from the tannery it has an oil content of about 16 to 19 percent. Much more than that and you can weaken the leather fibers and trap moisture (causing mold); much less and the leather can become dry and brittle, causing cracks or tears.

Oil is both good and bad for leather. Applying some oil is good, but a little oil goes a long way. The oil acts as a lubricator allowing the fibers to slide over each other and also causing the fibers to swell. As the fibers become “looser” the leather feels soft. However, these physical changes also cause leather to weaken. Too much oil, also, keeps the leather from being able to breathe and will hold excess moisture and cause the leather to rot. Too little oil and the leather can become brittle and dry, causing it to crack or tear.

Water, too, is necessary (and not evil). Without water, the oil cannot penetrate the leather fibers. If you apply oil when the leather is dry, the oil simply fills the spaces between the fibers rather than duplicating them. The water also helps you keep from over oiling and causing the leather fibers to weaken.

As for what type of oil to use, avoid products that contain mineral oils or petroleum distillates as they can break down over time into a solvent. Applying edible oils (olive oil, butter) also can be problematic as they can become rancid. However, the old story about neatsfoot oil rotting stitching is just that: a story. When stitching rots it’s because of the moisture trapped in the leather because of over oiling, regardless of the type of oil that’s used.

For my old tack I started by taking everything apart. Then, I cleaned off all visible dirt with a damp sponge and Castile soap, dried it so that it was just damp and rubbed in Passier Lederbalsalm. I applied a light coat, rubbing the leather with my fingers and then it soak in overnight. The next day it was mostly absorbed. I rubbed it all with a cloth and applied a second coat of the Lederbalsalm. Then I started using it — it’s great to have all this “new” tack!

The care of leather hasn’t changed much in the past century. I found the instructions that follow in the “Privates’ Manual,” by Major Jas A. Moss in 1915.

Cleaning. Daily, or as often as used, leather equipment should be wiped off with a cloth slightly dampened in water, merely to remove mud, dust or other foreign substances.

At intervals of from one to four weeks, depending upon the circumstances, it is essential that the equipment be thoroughly cleaned in accordance with the following instructions.

• Separate all parts, unbuckle straps, remove all buckles, loops, etc., where possible.
• Wipe off all surface dust and mud with a damp (not wet) sponge. After rinsing out the sponge, a lather is made by moistening the sponge in clear water, squeezing it out until nearly dry, and rubbing it vigorously upon the soap. When a thick, creamy lather is obtained, thoroughly clean each piece without neglecting any portion. Each strap should be drawn its length through the lathered sponge.
• After the leather has been allowed to become partially dry, it should be rubbed vigorously with a soft cloth to give it the neat, healthy appearance that is desired.
• How to apply oil. The quantity of oil to be used can not be definitely prescribed. If not enough oil is used, the leather will be stiff and brittle; if too much is used, it will soil the clothing and accumulate dirt. The leather should, therefore, be saturated with sufficient oil to be soft and pliable without excess sufficient to cause it to exude. In applying the oil the following general instructions should govern:
• The oil should be applied to the flesh side of the equipment where practicable when the leather is clean and still damp after washing (about half dry), because it penetrates more uniformly when applied from the flesh side, and when the leather is damp. If the leather is dry it will absorb the oil like blotting paper, preventing proper distribution.
• The oil should be applied with an oiled rag or cotton waste by long, light, quick strokes—light strokes, so the pressure applied may not squeeze out an excess of oil; quick storks, so that the leather may not absorb an undue amount of oil. The endeavor should be to obtain a light even distribution.
• After applying the oil the leather equipment should be allowed to stand for 24 hours, if practicable, in a warm dry place. It should then be rubbed with a dry cloth to remove any unabsorbed oil.

Colic isn’t a specific disease, but rather a term to describe abdominal pain that can be caused by several sources. Colic can present itself as a mild discomfort, or it can be extremely serious: Major intestinal disruptions, including blockages, twists [...]]]> This article provides tips on how to minimize the risk of colic in horses.

Colic isn’t a specific disease, but rather a term to describe abdominal pain that can be caused by several sources. Colic can present itself as a mild discomfort, or it can be extremely serious: Major intestinal disruptions, including blockages, twists and ruptures, are usually fatal unless surgery to remove or repair the diseased area of gut succeeds.

Colic symptoms afflict between 4 – 11% of horses annually. Of those afflicted, surgery is performed on about 1% and mortality rates are approximately 11%. Owners in the US spend a whopping $115,000,000 on colic treatments every year. (Sources: www.horseadvice.com and Wikipedia.)

According to an article in Thoroughbred Times,

A change of diet in the two weeks preceding the episode, particularly a change of hay, was the most likely cause of colic cited by 145 veterinarians reporting on more than 1,000 horses that colicked in a 1997-’98 Texas survey of dietary and other management factors associated with colic. Not surprisingly, the Texas study found that a previous history of colic, especially abdominal surgery for colic, predisposed horses to further episodes.

Weather changes during the three days prior to the colic episode, a recent change in stabling, poor or erratic parasite control, or administration of a deworming product during the seven days prior to the colic episode were also identified as factors associated with an increased risk of colic. Horses that were pastured with free access to a plentiful water source, stalled less than half the time, and received no exercise other than ambling around their pasture had a much lower risk of colic.

The good news is that you can take precautions that will help minimize your horse’s risk of colic.

• Make all changes in diet slowly, so that dietary changes are less likely to affect the horse’s intestinal bacteria. If your horse is traveling or you bring a new horse home, try to bring as much of the feed that it’s used to as possible so you can transition the horse over a period of several days to a week.
• Provide as much turnout as possible. A Texas study found that horses pastured with free access to a plentiful water source, stalled less than half the time, and receiving no exercise other than ambling around their pasture had a low risk of colic.
• Keep your horse hydrated by providing constant access to clean water. Horses who spent as little as one to two hours exercising in a paddock without access to water showed a greatly increased risk of developing colic. At times when you are concerned that your horse might not drink enough, you can add some salt to his feed. I do this on a regular basis. You can also soak their grain (or feed soaked beet pulp). My horse gets “soup” for every meal.
• Feed a forage-based diet, that minimizes grains and concentrates. A study conducted by the Virginia-Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine found that horses that consumed less than 5.5 pounds of grain concentrate daily were less likely to develop colic, while those who received most of their caloric intake from grain, rather than fiber, were at higher risk. If you need to add more calories, consider adding a fat source rather than feeding more grain.
• Feed hay before you feed grain. If your horse eats grain first, the forage can push the undigested grain into the hindgut. This disrupts the gut pH, making it more alkaline which can kill good bacteria.
• Provide access to forage as much of the day as possible. If a horse has no food for as little as 12 hours its intestinal lining can become irritated, which leads to ulcers.
• Do not feed moldy hay or grain.
• Feed processed grains such as extruded feeds, rolled/crimped oats, pelleted feeds, etc. which are easier to digest.
• If you live in a sandy area, try to keep food off the ground to limit intake of sand.
• Worm your horse regularly.
• Consider feeding a probiotic to help maintain a healthy gut.
• Feed on a regular schedule . . . or no schedule at all. Reducing stress can reduce the incidence of colic. When horses are used to being fed on a schedule, a delayed meal can cause anxiety. As stress hormone levels rise and digestive juices flow in anticipation of feeding, the chance of digestive upset increases. My own horse is fed on a very loose schedule but is given plenty of hay. Certainly he looks forward his meals but does not get upset if they aren’t fed at a specific time.

Tips on Recognizing Colic Symptoms

I see far too many people [...]]]>

This helmet safety poster from the Equestrian Medical Safety Association provides a handy check list to post at your barn.

Head protection is a critical element of rider safety. According to the Equestrian Medical Safety Association, 60% of equestrian fatalities are caused by head injuries! While equestrian helmets are far safer than they used to be, if your helmet doesn’t fit, it can compromise your safety.

I see far too many people riding with helmets that are obviously too large — they move around too much on the rider’s head. I’ve also heard people complain that their helmets leave indents on their foreheads or give them headaches — indicating the helmets are either too small or the wrong shape for their heads.

Helmet fit is very individual. I know that I can try on multiple helmets that are technically the same size only to find that I don’t like how most of them fit — even when they are just different models from the same company. That’s why it’s better to try a helmet on at a tack store, rather than order one from a catalog or website before you’ve assessed fit.

To determine whether a helmet fits, you should start with a helmet that is ASTM/SEI certified (if you’re in the U.S.) and then go through the following checklist.

• Is you hair the way you intend to have it when you ride. Helmet fit is profoundly influenced by your hair — to the point that if you change your hair style significantly you might need to re-evaluate how your helmet fits!
• Place your helmet on your head. The hat should sit level and the brim should be 3/4″ to 1″ above your eyebrows.
•  Before fastening the harness, gently rock the helmet back and forth. The helmet should be snug enough that the skin on your forehead and your eyebrows should move along with the helmet.
• Fasten the straps. The side straps should come to a point right in front of your ear lobes.
• When the harness is fastened, it should be snug enough to keep the helmet from tilting forward.
• The harness should snap under your chin and should be snug, but not tight.
• If possible, wear the helmet for about 10 minutes to assess whether any pressure points start to appear, especially across your forehead.
• Don’t forget to replace your helmet if you have a fall where you hit your head. While the helmet might look fine, the internal padding may have been compromised.

Video Demonstration

With a soaking boot you don’t have to convince your horse to stand with his hoof in a bucket [...]]]> If your horse has an abscess or a hoof injury that requires soaking, using a soaking boot like the Davis Boot, can make the experience far less painful for you and easier on your horse.

With a soaking boot you don’t have to convince your horse to stand with his hoof in a bucket of hot water. You don’t have to clean up the spilled water. And your horse gets better quality soaking time.

Here’s how you use the boot:

• Heat the water and mix it with Epsom salts. It’s helpful to put it in a container with a spout.
• Make sure the top strap is opened on the boot so that it’s easy to slip the horse’s hoof into it.
• Place the boot on your horse’s hoof.
• Pour the water and Epsom salts mixture into the boot. Be careful to pour it in slowly as the addition of the hot water may startle your horse, especially the first time you do it.
• When you have poured the water into the boot, use the strap to tighten the top of the boot. This helps the boot stay secure and prevents too much water from splashing out.
• Pour the Epsom salts and water mixture

 Tips:

• You can leave your horse on the cross ties while his hoof soaks or put him in his stall.
• You can add hot water to the boot to prolong the soaking time.