EquestrianHow2 » Tack

How to restore dried tack and old leather

admin — Thu, 05 Jan 2012 00:56:36 +0000

I personally like to use Passier Lederbalsam on dry tack. It works wonders.

When tack gets neglected and dried out, it can be daunting. I hate to throw away useable stuff, but how can you restore dried tack and old leather?

I know that many people like to oil tack. In fact, I’m amazed by the different types of oil that people put on their tack: olive oil, neatsfoot oil, hydrophane oil, mink oil, lexol, l’ve even heard of people using butter! At the same time there are a host of people telling you NOT to use the same products. Who should you believe?
I’ve never been a big fan of oil. Years ago a saddle fitter told me to avoid saddles that have been over oiled because the oil can break down the fibers in the leather. A little research into the structure of leather explains why.

When leather comes from the tannery it has an oil content of about 16 to 19 percent. Much more than that and you can weaken the leather fibers and trap moisture (causing mold); much less and the leather can become dry and brittle, causing cracks or tears.

Oil is both good and bad for leather. Applying some oil is good, but a little oil goes a long way. The oil acts as a lubricator allowing the fibers to slide over each other and also causing the fibers to swell. As the fibers become “looser” the leather feels soft. However, these physical changes also cause leather to weaken. Too much oil, also, keeps the leather from being able to breathe and will hold excess moisture and cause the leather to rot. Too little oil and the leather can become brittle and dry, causing it to crack or tear.

Water, too, is necessary (and not evil). Without water, the oil cannot penetrate the leather fibers. If you apply oil when the leather is dry, the oil simply fills the spaces between the fibers rather than duplicating them. The water also helps you keep from over oiling and causing the leather fibers to weaken.

As for what type of oil to use, avoid products that contain mineral oils or petroleum distillates as they can break down over time into a solvent. Applying edible oils (olive oil, butter) also can be problematic as they can become rancid. However, the old story about neatsfoot oil rotting stitching is just that: a story. When stitching rots it’s because of the moisture trapped in the leather because of over oiling, regardless of the type of oil that’s used.

For my old tack I started by taking everything apart. Then, I cleaned off all visible dirt with a damp sponge and Castile soap, dried it so that it was just damp and rubbed in Passier Lederbalsalm. I applied a light coat, rubbing the leather with my fingers and then it soak in overnight. The next day it was mostly absorbed. I rubbed it all with a cloth and applied a second coat of the Lederbalsalm. Then I started using it — it’s great to have all this “new” tack!

The care of leather hasn’t changed much in the past century. I found the instructions that follow in the “Privates’ Manual,” by Major Jas A. Moss in 1915.

Cleaning. Daily, or as often as used, leather equipment should be wiped off with a cloth slightly dampened in water, merely to remove mud, dust or other foreign substances.

At intervals of from one to four weeks, depending upon the circumstances, it is essential that the equipment be thoroughly cleaned in accordance with the following instructions.

Separate all parts, unbuckle straps, remove all buckles, loops, etc., where possible.

Wipe off all surface dust and mud with a damp (not wet) sponge. After rinsing out the sponge, a lather is made by moistening the sponge in clear water, squeezing it out until nearly dry, and rubbing it vigorously upon the soap. When a thick, creamy lather is obtained, thoroughly clean each piece without neglecting any portion. Each strap should be drawn its length through the lathered sponge.

After the leather has been allowed to become partially dry, it should be rubbed vigorously with a soft cloth to give it the neat, healthy appearance that is desired.

How to apply oil. The quantity of oil to be used can not be definitely prescribed. If not enough oil is used, the leather will be stiff and brittle; if too much is used, it will soil the clothing and accumulate dirt. The leather should, therefore, be saturated with sufficient oil to be soft and pliable without excess sufficient to cause it to exude. In applying the oil the following general instructions should govern:

The oil should be applied to the flesh side of the equipment where practicable when the leather is clean and still damp after washing (about half dry), because it penetrates more uniformly when applied from the flesh side, and when the leather is damp. If the leather is dry it will absorb the oil like blotting paper, preventing proper distribution.

The oil should be applied with an oiled rag or cotton waste by long, light, quick strokes—light strokes, so the pressure applied may not squeeze out an excess of oil; quick storks, so that the leather may not absorb an undue amount of oil. The endeavor should be to obtain a light even distribution.

After applying the oil the leather equipment should be allowed to stand for 24 hours, if practicable, in a warm dry place. It should then be rubbed with a dry cloth to remove any unabsorbed oil.

How to fit a curb chain

admin — Wed, 23 Nov 2011 00:50:24 +0000

Here is a curb chain on a Kimberwicke bit. Start by untwisting the chain.

The curb chain is an essential part of leverage bits like pelhams and Kimberwickes or double bridles. Adjusting them properly is key to having the bit work the way it is intended. Curb chain fit into the groove under a horse’s chin. When the rider pulls on the curb rein, it causes the shanks to rotate backward and the mouthpiece to move forward. As the shanks come back, the curb chain will come into contact with the horse’s chin and apply pressure. If the curb chain is too loose, the shanks will come back farther, magnifying the pressure; if the curb chain is too tight, the curb action is felt almost immediately.

The most common rule of thumb is for the curb to come into play when the shanks are rotated 45 degrees. On most bits that means that there should be about two fingers’ width of space between the curb chain and the curb groove.

Most of the time the curb chain is just that — a length of chain. In some cases, a leather strap is used. This is a milder alternative and you can skip the first step mentioned below.

To begin, attach the curb chain to the hook on the right hand side of bit and untwist it until it lies flat. If the chain is twisted, it will increase the intensity of the pressure against the bit groove.
Once the chain is flat, twist it one extra half twist and attach it to the left hand hook.
You should be able to fit two fingers between the curb chain and your horse's chin.

Make sure you can fit two fingers in between the curb chain and the curb groove.

Tips:

Some horses prefer the curb chain to be slightly looser or slightly tighter. Always start with the two fingers measurement and then make minor adjustments (one link at a time) and see how your horse responds.
Remember that a leverage bit exerts considerably more pressure on a horse’s mouth than a snaffle. With a snaffle the amount of pressure you apply to the reins is directly felt by the horse. With a leverage bit, the shanks magnify that pressure. With a short shank bit, liked a Kimberwicke, it might only be a small increase. For example, if you apply 5 pounds of pressure the horse might feel seven and a half; with a long shank bit, the amount of pressure might be several multiples of the direct pressure.

Video Demonstration

How to attach a snaffle bit to a bridle

admin — Mon, 10 Oct 2011 01:09:51 +0000

Here the snaffle bit is correctly attached to the bridle. You can see how the mouthpiece is configured so that the bit faces forward. This allows it to drape over the tongue.

Snaffle bits come with several different mouthpiece options — a mullen mouth, which is straight, and either a single or double jointed mouthpiece.

It’s important that the mouthpiece be configured in the proper way for the bit to work properly. Since many bits are made with ring cheek pieces, it can be inadvertently attached to the bridle incorrectly and will cause a lot of pain to the horse.

When a snaffle bit has jointed mouthpiece, it is important that the joint drape downward. This allows the bit to fit into the bars of the mouth (where the horse has no teeth) and drape over the tongue.

If the bit is attached to the bridle backwards, the snaffle joint creates a sharp angle because the joint is bent in the

When a snaffle bit is installed backwards the joint creates a sharp point that would dig into the horse's palate.

wrong direction. If the rider were to pull on the reins when the bit was backwards, it would drive the joint into the palate of the horse’s mouth and cause pain.

How to change a Wintec gullet

admin — Mon, 03 Oct 2011 00:43:35 +0000

Wintec’s EASY-CHANGE™ Gullet System makes it easy for horse owners to adjust their saddle fit as their horse matures and changes shape. I’ve used them on my own horses, especially when I buy a horse that is young or under muscled — by changing the gullet I can accommodate my horse’s changing shape without buying a whole new saddle.

It’s not hard to change a Wintec gullet. The only tool you need is a Phillips head screw driver and maybe an extra hand!

Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the screws located under the pommel. Make sure you put them somewhere safe!

Next loosen the velcro closure at the pommel and pull the tree points from their pocket. This exposes the gullet plate. You’ll see that it is attached by a screw at the end of each one.

Remove the screws at the bottom of the gullet plate. These screws are different from the ones you use to secure the skirt so keep them safe, too.

Remove the existing gullet and slide the new one into place. Put each of the screws in loosely before you start to tighten them up. Make sure you use the correct screws.

Slide the points of the gullet back into their pockets.

Re-attach the velcro closure over the pommel and put the screws back in.

This video gives you an overview of the process.

Tips

While it is usually quite easy to increase or decrease a gullet when going up or down one size, it can be more difficult if you are trying to decrease two sizes or more as it can be difficult to get the saddle to compress in far enough to tighten the screws. In that case, you should use a gullet that is one size smaller for about a week and then bring the saddle down another size.
Don’t be afraid to “manhandle” the saddle a bit. The wintecs are quite strong and you can bend it quite aggressively without causing any harm.

How to check treeless saddle fit.

admin — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 00:54:41 +0000

Treeless saddle string test

While treeless saddle manufacturers state that their saddles fit all horses, that’s not quite true.

Treeless saddles DO fit a broader range of horse sizes and shapes than saddles with a fixed tree but it is still important that the saddle distributes the rider’s weight over a large area and does not concentrate pressure on the horse’s withers, spine or loin area.

That’s why most treeless saddle manufacturers recommend using special padding systems to be used under the saddle. The pad creates a gullet and protects the horse’s spine.

Even so, it’s very important to check that your weight is not resting on the horse’s spine — after all, that’s where the horse’s nervous system runs!

Checking saddle clearance is easy and requires only a length of baling twine.

Cut a length of twine that’s 3-4′ long.
Tie a knot in at one end of the string.
Place the string in the gullet area of the saddle (where it would cover the horse’s spine) with the knot sticking out in front of the pommel.
Saddle your horse and tighten the girth. Make sure the knot is still in front of the pommel and the string is centered over the horse’s spine. Girth your saddle up.
Mount your horse. While seated, try to pull the string through the saddle (from front to back).

How to interpret the results.

If the string slides through easily, your saddle has enough clearance.
If the string slides through with minor resistance, it’s probably fine. This could also be caused by the string catching on your saddle pad.
If you can pull the string through but it’s a bit hard to do so, you probably need to improve the padding under your saddle.
If you can’t pull the string through or it requires a lot of strength, you either need a drastic padding change or a different saddle.

How to measure seat size on an English saddle

admin — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 03:32:42 +0000

English and Western saddles come in different seat sizes. Of course, they aren’t measured the same way (that would be too easy). However, understanding seat size is critical to getting a saddle that fits!

Here’s how you measure the seat size on an English saddle.

Start measuring from the nail, or “button”, that is on either side of the pommel.
Extend the measuring tape from the button to the center of the cantle.
That’s it!

Tips:

Remember that seat depth impacts fit just as much as size. A 17″ saddle with a flat seat will ride “bigger” than a 17″ saddle with a deep seat. That’s why it’s important to try different saddles before buying.
In general, dressage saddles have deeper seats than jumping saddles. People often need to go up half an inch or an inch in size depending on the depth of the seat.

How to Adjust a Standing Martingale

admin — Sat, 02 Jan 2010 00:52:26 +0000

A properly adjusted martingale will only affect a horse when it flings its head back.

The standing martingale is a piece of tack that first gained prominence in the hunt field. It’s sole purpose is to keep a horse from flinging its head back and hitting the rider in the face. A standing martingale therefore should only come into play when a horse raises its head well above the normal level of control.

When out foxhunting, this can be an issue when you are galloping and jumping over hilly terrain. You don’t want to be smacked in the face when your horse makes that extra effort to jump a big stone wall while going up hill. Sometimes you have a horse that uses head flipping as an evasion. I had a mare like this: when she first came off the race track she would invert and throw her head back so fast it was amazing. Putting a standing martingale on her (until she learned she wasn’t a giraffe) was an act of preservation.

Most standing martingales rarely see the hunt field. They are widely used in the hunter ring (over fences, never on the flat) mostly because I think people like the way they look. I certainly can’t imagine a show hunter flinging its head up.

Here's an example of a standing martingale that's adjusted too short. It is already restricting the horse's head.

The problem lies in the fact that many standing martingales are incorrectly adjusted. Namely, they are too short and restrict the horse’s head and neck position. I think that’s because many people misunderstand the use of the standing martingale. Rather than using it as a safety device, people try to use them to control their horse’s head set and create a “frame.”

How to attach and adjust a standing martingale.

A standing martingale attaches on one end to the girth and on the other end to the nose band or cavesson of the bridle. The strap is held in place by a either a breastplate or a neckstrap.

With your horse standing calmly and at rest, check to see if the slack of the martingale (from the noseband to
There should be enough slack in the martingale strap to easily bring it to the horse's jaw or throat latch.

the connection on the breastplate) is long enough that you can easily raise it up to the horse’s jaw.
Make sure that the length of strap from the breastplate to the girth is not dangling. If it’s too long, it could potential trap a horse’s leg.

Tips and Warnings

Standing martingales should ONLY be connected to conventional nosebands; never attach one to a drop nose band or a figure 8.
Make sure your noseband is not too low on your horse’s head. If the noseband is too low and the horse snaps its head back it can damage the bone and cartilage of the nose.
Standing martingales are not a substitute for training. Head carriage and submission to the bit are achieved by training that strengthens and supples your horse; not by tying its head down.

Video demonstration:

This is a useful demonstration of how to adjust a standing martingale.

How to Clean a Synthetic Saddle

admin — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 00:18:24 +0000

One of the beauties of going synthetic is that care is minimal and easy. They have all been extremely durable and showed little to no wear. Synthetic saddles are pretty impervious to sweat or rain and they don’t really show dirt.

With a synthetic saddle, the elements are not an issue. So, toss the oil and the saddle soap. Not only are they unnecessary, but using these products isn’t good for a synthetic saddle. Here’s what I’ve found works well:

Instructions:

If the saddle is really dirty, you can use a damp cloth with some mild soap. After scrubbing off the saddle, wipe it again with a clean damp cloth.
Don’t hose down or soak your saddle, especially if it’s wool flocked. While the saddle surface will dry out relatively quickly, the flocking will be wet for a long time.
If your saddle gets wet (say, from riding in the rain), don’t leave it
Wipe the saddle with a damp cloth after riding.
in the sun to dry out. Instead, put it in a warm, shady spot.
For equisuede, you can restore the nap and clean off dirt by brushing with a stiff brush.
Wintec also makes a spray on cleaner that you can use to get off stubborn stains.

Tips & Warnings:

Don’t use solvents on your saddle or girth.
Don’t soak your saddle with water.
Always dry your saddle out of the sun.
Don’t apply oils or waxes.

How to Buy a Saddle on eBay

admin — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 01:40:35 +0000

I frequent the saddle listings on eBay, looking for those great deals on saddles that I’ve always wanted to try. If yo wait long enough, you can almost guarantee that the saddle you are looking for will show up on eBay, and often at a great price. But not everyone feels comfortable buying on eBay. Here are some tips to help ensure you get one of those great deals.

The biggest issue that you have buying on eBay is that most sales are “final” — this means you need to buy the saddle without trying it.

I bought this Schleese eventing saddle for 1/3 of its original price on eBay.

Buying a saddle from a photo requires a leap of faith and an educated eye. EBay is not the place to buy indiscriminately because there are so many variables involved with buying a saddle that fits you and your horse.

Instructions:

Only buy from sellers with positive feedback. When you are buying a saddle that you’ve seen only in a photo, you need to trust that it’s being accurately presented. I generally buy only from sellers with 100% positive feedback as these are the ones who have a vested interest in keeping their ratings high.
Learn what kinds of saddles suit you and your horse. Does your horse do better with a flat panel or one with a curve? Do you need extra forward flaps? Do you prefer a deep seat or a flat one? Figure this out before you start bidding.
Ride in a the exact same size and model to make sure it’s the right saddle for you and your horse. Often you can borrow a saddle from friends or get one from a consignment shop.
Make sure the photos are of the actual item being sold and that you see enough photos to assess its condition. I like to see photos of the panels (to make sure they are even), the gullet (to make sure it’s wide enough and doesn’t narrow toward the back of the saddle) and the seat.
Ask the seller for measurements. I’ve seen saddles that just didn’t look like the size that was being advertised. Sure enough, when I asked to see a photo of the seat being measured, it was smaller than presented.
Ask if there have been any repairs to the saddle. I once bought a saddle that came with patches on the flaps. They weren’t obvious in the photos and the seller “neglected” to mention them.
Ask specifically if the tree is sound. A saddle with a cracked or broken tree cannot be used and often cannot be fixed.
Pay for insurance if it’s not included. Boxes do go missing. I once returned a saddle to a tack shop and it never arrived. I was mighty glad to have insurance on it.
If you buy a saddle that you aren’t sure is going to work, make sure you don’t over pay. You can often resell on eBay and get your money back on a used saddle, something that is difficult to do if you buy new.

Not everyone feels comfortable buying a saddle from a stranger that they cannot return. I’ve bought and sold close to 15 saddles on eBay and only once did I receive a saddle that was truly misrepresented. I was also able get some lovely saddlels that I would not have been able to afford had I bought them new.

Tips & Warnings

Don’t buy from sellers with negative feedback.
Don’t buy from sellers who don’t show photos of the actual saddle.
Avoid sellers who ask you to pay by Western Union. In fact, eBay now specifies that payment should be made only through Paypal.
Check to see if sellers have a history of selling equestrian equipment or horse related items. If they haven’t ask enough questions to make sure they have the item and that it’s accurately represented.