Treeless saddle string test

While treeless saddle manufacturers state that their saddles fit all horses, that’s not quite true.

Treeless saddles DO fit a broader range of horse sizes and shapes than saddles with a fixed tree but it is still important that the saddle distributes the rider’s weight over a large area and does not concentrate pressure on the horse’s withers, spine or loin area.

That’s why most treeless saddle manufacturers recommend using special padding systems to be used under the saddle. The pad creates a gullet and protects the horse’s spine.

Even so, it’s very important to check that your weight is not resting on the horse’s spine — after all, that’s where the horse’s nervous system runs!

Checking saddle clearance is easy and requires only a length of baling twine.

• Cut a length of twine that’s 3-4′ long.
• Tie a knot in at one end of the string.
• Place the string in the gullet area of the saddle (where it would cover the horse’s spine) with the knot sticking out in front of the pommel.
• Saddle your horse and tighten the girth. Make sure the knot is still in front of the pommel and the string is centered over the horse’s spine. Girth your saddle up.
• Mount your horse. While seated, try to pull the string through the saddle (from front to back).

How to interpret the results.

• If the string slides through easily, your saddle has enough clearance.
• If the string slides through with minor resistance, it’s probably fine. This could also be caused by the string catching on your saddle pad.
• If you can pull the string through but it’s a bit hard to do so, you probably need to improve the padding under your saddle.
• If you can’t pull the string through or it requires a lot of strength, you either need a drastic padding change or a different saddle.

English and Western saddles come in different seat sizes. Of course, they aren’t measured the same way (that would be too easy). However, understanding seat size is critical to getting a saddle that fits!

Here’s how you measure the seat size on an English saddle.

• 

  Measuring the seat size on an English saddle is simple.

  Start measuring from the nail, or “button”, that is on either side of the pommel.

• Extend the measuring tape from the button to the center of the cantle.
• That’s it!

Tips:

• Remember that seat depth impacts fit just as much as size. A 17″ saddle with a flat seat will ride “bigger” than a 17″ saddle with a deep seat. That’s why it’s important to try different saddles before buying.
• In general, dressage saddles have deeper seats than jumping saddles. People often need to go up half an inch or an inch in size depending on the depth of the seat.

A properly adjusted martingale will only affect a horse when it flings its head back.

The standing martingale is a piece of tack that first gained prominence in the hunt field. It’s sole purpose is to keep a horse from flinging its head back and hitting the rider in the face. A standing martingale therefore should only come into play when a horse raises its head well above the normal level of control.

When out foxhunting, this can be an issue when you are galloping and jumping over hilly terrain. You don’t want to be smacked in the face when your horse makes that extra effort to jump a big stone wall while going up hill. Sometimes you have a horse that uses head flipping as an evasion. I had a mare like this: when she first came off the race track she would invert and throw her head back so fast it was amazing. Putting a standing martingale on her (until she learned she wasn’t a giraffe) was an act of preservation.

Most standing martingales rarely see the hunt field. They are widely used in the hunter ring (over fences, never on the flat) mostly because I think people like the way they look. I certainly can’t imagine a show hunter flinging its head up.

Here's an example of a standing martingale that's adjusted too short. It is already restricting the horse's head.

The problem lies in the fact that many standing martingales are incorrectly adjusted. Namely, they are too short and restrict the horse’s head and neck position. I think that’s because many people misunderstand the use of the standing martingale. Rather than using it as a safety device, people try to use them to control their horse’s head set and create a “frame.”

How to attach and adjust a standing martingale.

• A standing martingale attaches on one end to the girth and on the other end to the nose band or cavesson of the bridle. The strap is held in place by a either a breastplate or a neckstrap.

• With your horse standing calmly and at rest, check to see if the slack of the martingale (from the noseband to
  

  There should be enough slack in the martingale strap to easily bring it to the horse's jaw or throat latch.

  the connection on the breastplate) is long enough that you can easily raise it up to the horse’s jaw.

• Make sure that the length of strap from the breastplate to the girth is not dangling. If it’s too long, it could potential trap a horse’s leg.

Tips and Warnings

• Standing martingales should ONLY be connected to conventional nosebands; never attach one to a drop nose band or a figure 8.
• Make sure your noseband is not too low on your horse’s head. If the noseband is too low and the horse snaps its head back it can damage the bone and cartilage of the nose.
• Standing martingales are not a substitute for training. Head carriage and submission to the bit are achieved by training that strengthens and supples your horse; not by tying its head down.

Video demonstration:

This is a useful demonstration of how to adjust a standing martingale.

One of the beauties of going synthetic is that care is minimal and easy. They have all been extremely durable and showed little to no wear. Synthetic saddles are pretty impervious to sweat or rain and they don’t really show dirt.

With a synthetic saddle, the elements are not an issue. So, toss the oil and the saddle soap. Not only are they unnecessary, but using these products isn’t good for a synthetic saddle. Here’s what I’ve found works well:

Instructions:

• If the saddle is really dirty, you can use a damp cloth with some mild soap. After scrubbing off the saddle, wipe it again with a clean damp cloth.
• Don’t hose down or soak your saddle, especially if it’s wool flocked. While the saddle surface will dry out relatively quickly, the flocking will be wet for a long time.
• If your saddle gets wet (say, from riding in the rain), don’t leave it
• Wipe the saddle with a damp cloth after riding.
• in the sun to dry out. Instead, put it in a warm, shady spot.
• For equisuede, you can restore the nap and clean off dirt by brushing with a stiff brush.
• Wintec also makes a spray on cleaner that you can use to get off stubborn stains.

Tips & Warnings:

• Don’t use solvents on your saddle or girth.
• Don’t soak your saddle with water.
• Always dry your saddle out of the sun.
• Don’t apply oils or waxes.

I frequent the saddle listings on eBay, looking for those great deals on saddles that I’ve always wanted to try. If yo wait long enough, you can almost guarantee that the saddle you are looking for will show up on eBay, and often at a great price. But not everyone feels comfortable buying on eBay. Here are some tips to help ensure you get one of those great deals.

The biggest issue that you have buying on eBay is that most sales are “final” — this means you need to buy the saddle without trying it.

I bought this Schleese eventing saddle for 1/3 of its original price on eBay.

Buying a saddle from a photo requires a leap of faith and an educated eye. EBay is not the place to buy indiscriminately because there are so many variables involved with buying a saddle that fits you and your horse.

Instructions:

1. Only buy from sellers with positive feedback. When you are buying a saddle that you’ve seen only in a photo, you need to trust that it’s being accurately presented. I generally buy only from sellers with 100% positive feedback as these are the ones who have a vested interest in keeping their ratings high.
2. Learn what kinds of saddles suit you and your horse. Does your horse do better with a flat panel or one with a curve? Do you need extra forward flaps? Do you prefer a deep seat or a flat one? Figure this out before you start bidding.
3. Ride in a the exact same size and model to make sure it’s the right saddle for you and your horse. Often you can borrow a saddle from friends or get one from a consignment shop.
4. Make sure the photos are of the actual item being sold and that you see enough photos to assess its condition. I like to see photos of the panels (to make sure they are even), the gullet (to make sure it’s wide enough and doesn’t narrow toward the back of the saddle) and the seat.
5. Ask the seller for measurements. I’ve seen saddles that just didn’t look like the size that was being advertised. Sure enough, when I asked to see a photo of the seat being measured, it was smaller than presented.
6. Ask if there have been any repairs to the saddle. I once bought a saddle that came with patches on the flaps. They weren’t obvious in the photos and the seller “neglected” to mention them.
7. Ask specifically if the tree is sound. A saddle with a cracked or broken tree cannot be used and often cannot be fixed.
8. Pay for insurance if it’s not included. Boxes do go missing. I once returned a saddle to a tack shop and it never arrived. I was mighty glad to have insurance on it.
9. If you buy a saddle that you aren’t sure is going to work, make sure you don’t over pay. You can often resell on eBay and get your money back on a used saddle, something that is difficult to do if you buy new.

Not everyone feels comfortable buying a saddle from a stranger that they cannot return. I’ve bought and sold close to 15 saddles on eBay and only once did I receive a saddle that was truly misrepresented. I was also able get some lovely saddlels that I would not have been able to afford had I bought them new.

Tips & Warnings

1. Don’t buy from sellers with negative feedback.
2. Don’t buy from sellers who don’t show photos of the actual saddle.
3. Avoid sellers who ask you to pay by Western Union. In fact, eBay now specifies that payment should be made only through Paypal.
4. Check to see if sellers have a history of selling equestrian equipment or horse related items. If they haven’t ask enough questions to make sure they have the item and that it’s accurately represented.