Colic isn’t a specific disease, but rather a term to describe abdominal pain that can be caused by several sources. Colic can present itself as a mild discomfort, or it can be extremely serious: Major intestinal disruptions, including blockages, twists [...]]]>

This article provides tips on how to minimize the risk of colic in horses.

Colic isn’t a specific disease, but rather a term to describe abdominal pain that can be caused by several sources. Colic can present itself as a mild discomfort, or it can be extremely serious: Major intestinal disruptions, including blockages, twists and ruptures, are usually fatal unless surgery to remove or repair the diseased area of gut succeeds.

Colic symptoms afflict between 4 – 11% of horses annually. Of those afflicted, surgery is performed on about 1% and mortality rates are approximately 11%. Owners in the US spend a whopping $115,000,000 on colic treatments every year. (Sources: www.horseadvice.com and Wikipedia.)

According to an article in Thoroughbred Times,

A change of diet in the two weeks preceding the episode, particularly a change of hay, was the most likely cause of colic cited by 145 veterinarians reporting on more than 1,000 horses that colicked in a 1997-’98 Texas survey of dietary and other management factors associated with colic. Not surprisingly, the Texas study found that a previous history of colic, especially abdominal surgery for colic, predisposed horses to further episodes.

Weather changes during the three days prior to the colic episode, a recent change in stabling, poor or erratic parasite control, or administration of a deworming product during the seven days prior to the colic episode were also identified as factors associated with an increased risk of colic. Horses that were pastured with free access to a plentiful water source, stalled less than half the time, and received no exercise other than ambling around their pasture had a much lower risk of colic.

The good news is that you can take precautions that will help minimize your horse’s risk of colic.

• Make all changes in diet slowly, so that dietary changes are less likely to affect the horse’s intestinal bacteria. If your horse is traveling or you bring a new horse home, try to bring as much of the feed that it’s used to as possible so you can transition the horse over a period of several days to a week.
• Provide as much turnout as possible. A Texas study found that horses pastured with free access to a plentiful water source, stalled less than half the time, and receiving no exercise other than ambling around their pasture had a low risk of colic.
• Keep your horse hydrated by providing constant access to clean water. Horses who spent as little as one to two hours exercising in a paddock without access to water showed a greatly increased risk of developing colic. At times when you are concerned that your horse might not drink enough, you can add some salt to his feed. I do this on a regular basis. You can also soak their grain (or feed soaked beet pulp). My horse gets “soup” for every meal.
• Feed a forage-based diet, that minimizes grains and concentrates. A study conducted by the Virginia-Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine found that horses that consumed less than 5.5 pounds of grain concentrate daily were less likely to develop colic, while those who received most of their caloric intake from grain, rather than fiber, were at higher risk. If you need to add more calories, consider adding a fat source rather than feeding more grain.
• Feed hay before you feed grain. If your horse eats grain first, the forage can push the undigested grain into the hindgut. This disrupts the gut pH, making it more alkaline which can kill good bacteria.
• Provide access to forage as much of the day as possible. If a horse has no food for as little as 12 hours its intestinal lining can become irritated, which leads to ulcers.
• Do not feed moldy hay or grain.
• Feed processed grains such as extruded feeds, rolled/crimped oats, pelleted feeds, etc. which are easier to digest.
• If you live in a sandy area, try to keep food off the ground to limit intake of sand.
• Worm your horse regularly.
• Consider feeding a probiotic to help maintain a healthy gut.
• Feed on a regular schedule . . . or no schedule at all. Reducing stress can reduce the incidence of colic. When horses are used to being fed on a schedule, a delayed meal can cause anxiety. As stress hormone levels rise and digestive juices flow in anticipation of feeding, the chance of digestive upset increases. My own horse is fed on a very loose schedule but is given plenty of hay. Certainly he looks forward his meals but does not get upset if they aren’t fed at a specific time.

Tips on Recognizing Colic Symptoms

With a soaking boot you don’t have to convince your horse to stand with his hoof in a bucket [...]]]>

If your horse has an abscess or a hoof injury that requires soaking, using a soaking boot like the Davis Boot, can make the experience far less painful for you and easier on your horse.

With a soaking boot you don’t have to convince your horse to stand with his hoof in a bucket of hot water. You don’t have to clean up the spilled water. And your horse gets better quality soaking time.

Here’s how you use the boot:

• Heat the water and mix it with Epsom salts. It’s helpful to put it in a container with a spout.
• Make sure the top strap is opened on the boot so that it’s easy to slip the horse’s hoof into it.
• Place the boot on your horse’s hoof.
• Pour the water and Epsom salts mixture into the boot. Be careful to pour it in slowly as the addition of the hot water may startle your horse, especially the first time you do it.
• When you have poured the water into the boot, use the strap to tighten the top of the boot. This helps the boot stay secure and prevents too much water from splashing out.
• Pour the Epsom salts and water mixture

 Tips:

• You can leave your horse on the cross ties while his hoof soaks or put him in his stall.
• You can add hot water to the boot to prolong the soaking time.

Taking proper care of your horse’s tail can make a big difference.

Whatever the reason, it is a lovely [...]]]>

A baroque horse with Running braid.

Spanish, or running, braids are used on horse breeds where the manes are left long. This includes Baroque horses like Andalusians and Fresians, and breeds such as Arabians and Morgans who need to keep their manes long for breed shows but might also compete in hunters or dressage.

Whatever the reason, it is a lovely technique for keeping those flowing manes under control!

Instructions:

• Start with a clean mane that has been combed until it’s knot free.
• Dampen the mane to help with the braiding. Sometimes it’s helpful to use a spray on solution such as QuicBraid to help the braids hold better.
• Begin your braid at the top of the horse’s mane near the poll or right behind the bridlepath.
• Take three pieces of mane about 1/2″ wide. The first two passes are like a normal braid.
• When you start to braid in the third strand, add more hair (another 1/2″) to the existing strand and braid it in.
• Continue to add mane ONLY to the left hand strand and you will start to see the braid emerge at the bottom of the mane.
• When you get to the end of your horse’s neck, continue braiding the mane into a “pigtail.”
• Add some yarn into the braid and continue until the hair is too think to hold a secure braid.
• Tie off braid and then fold the braided pigtail under the braid.
• Tie off the braid by bringing one part of the string up through the braid and making a square knot with the bottom string.

Tips

• If you braid too tightly, the braid will stretch when your horse lowers his head. Make the braid a bit loose but still secure.
• Keep your hands close to the horse’s crest and directly below the part of the mane from which you are taking hair. This keeps the braid from stretching out.
• If your horse has a really thick mane you can braid it down both sides.

Video Demonstration

Carrot Stretches are easy ways to stretch your horse’s neck and top line. They are something that you can incorporate into your [...]]]>

Carrot stretches are an easy and fun way to stretch your horse.

Stretches help keep your horse supple, can prevent injuries and improve performance. “Carrot stretches” are an excellent way to encourage your horse to stretch. After all, most horses can be bribed by food!

Carrot Stretches are easy ways to stretch your horse’s neck and top line. They are something that you can incorporate into your grooming routine because they take just a few minutes.

• Start by asking your horse to stretch sideways by holding the carrot to each side either along his barrel or back toward his hip. To achieve the stretch it’s important that your horse keeps his feet still and doesn’t move his body to get the carrot. He may not be able to reach all that way to his hip at first, so it’s okay if you work up to it. You can subtly adjust this stretch by having your horse reach toward his stifle or elbow as well as his hip. This movement stretches your horse’s neck and shoulder.
• Next ask your horse to bring his head down toward his chest by holding a piece of carrot there. This movement stretches your horse’s poll, crest and neck muscles, and opens the space between the base of the skull and the first vertebra (atlas).
• Finally hold the carrot between your horse’s forelegs near the girth area. This helps stretch his topline, crest and withers.

Tips & Warnings

• It’s better to stretch after your horse is warmed up. It’s not a good idea to stretch cold, tight muscles.
• The best time to stretch is after you’ve warmed down.
• When you start a stretch, first ask your horse for only a part stretch. If he does okay with it then you can extend it.
• Start with easy stretches, then work up to harder ones.
• As your horse gets more flexible, increase the length of the stretches so that they hold the position for 30 seconds.
• Don’t forget to stretch both sides of the horse.

Video Demonstration

Traditional patterns are checkerboards, diamonds and sharks teeth but there are stencils available that allow a host of different shapes.

Of course, squirting a paste into a resisting 1200 pound animal can be a source of great amusement for those watching and frustration for those administering. Here are some [...]]]>

Dosing your horse with a syringe is an effective way to administer oral meds.

Giving a horse medications is not always as easy as mixing a powder into its feed. Sometimes you need to administer them orally using a syringe.

Of course, squirting a paste into a resisting 1200 pound animal can be a source of great amusement for those watching and frustration for those administering. Here are some tips that can help you succeed.

Instructions:

Practice before you need to make it count. When you give meds “for real” you can’t have them spit half the dose on the ground. It’s a good idea to do a trial run or two using a pleasant tasting substance (like apple sauce) in the syringe.

• If you are right handed, stand on the right side of the horse, facing in the same direction as the horse and holding the syringe in your right hand.
• Once the syringe is loaded, relax your horse by stroking his head and massaging his neck
• Once your horse is calm and relaxed, put your finger in the corner of his mouth and massage gently.
• Next, place the tip of the syringe in the corner of your horse’s mouth.
• Raise your horse’s head slightly
• Move the syringe tip around to stimulate movement of the tongue.
• And inject the apple sauce or medication.

Tips & Warnings

• You can make a palatable paste out of many types of pills or powders by mixing them with either applesauce, molasses, or Kool-Aid
• Cross tie your horse or have someone hold him using a lead rope. Some vets suggest giving oral meds in the horse’s stall where they are more confined.
• Make sure that if your horse spits some of the medication out, that you adjust the dosage and that you clean it up. Some medications, such as Ivermectin de-wormer, can be toxic to certain breeds of dogs.

Video demonstration:

An adult horse has a resting pulse rate of 28-45 beats per minute (count the double ‘lub dub’ as one full beat). You should check your horse’s pulse rate several times so that you can [...]]]>

As a horse owner it’s important for you to be able to know how to check your horse’s vital signs.

An adult horse has a resting pulse rate of 28-45 beats per minute (count the double ‘lub dub’ as one full beat). You should check your horse’s pulse rate several times so that you can establish a baseline for what is normal. A pulse rate of 50 bpm or higher at rest is an indicator that a horse is in physical distress, is excited or nervous, in pain or suffering from a disease.

Checking the digital pulse in the fetlock is an excellent way to determine if there is a problem such as laminitis. It’s a good idea to know what your horse’s digital pulse normally feels like so that you have a baseline. When a horse has a stronger than usual digital pulse you should call your vet.

Instructions

There are three ways to check your horse’s pulse.

Place your index finger lightly in front of the left jawbone where you can feel a major artery.

Use a stethoscope to listen to the pulse behind the left elbow.

To check the digital pulse place your fingers on the inside and outside of a leg on the fetlock. When the pulse is normal you can feel it only lightly.

Tips & Warnings

Don’t use your thumb when checking for a pulse under the jawbone. You may inadvertently feel your own pulse.

When checking the digital pulse get a baseline on all four hooves. A normal resting pulse is very light. If you feel a throbbing pulse, call your veterinarian. A strong digital pulse is often a sign of laminitis.

Watch the video