»
S
I
D
E
B
A
R
«
How to check treeless saddle fit.
Feb 4th, 2010 by admin
Treeless saddle string test

Treeless saddle string test

While treeless saddle manufacturers state that their saddles fit all horses, that’s not quite true.

Treeless saddles DO fit a broader range of horse sizes and shapes than saddles with a fixed tree but it is still important that the saddle distributes the rider’s weight over a large area and does not concentrate pressure on the horse’s withers, spine or loin area.

That’s why most treeless saddle manufacturers recommend using special padding systems to be used under the saddle. The pad creates a gullet and protects the horse’s spine.

Even so, it’s very important to check that your weight is not resting on the horse’s spine — after all, that’s where the horse’s nervous system runs!

Checking saddle clearance is easy and requires only a length of baling twine.

  • Cut a length of twine that’s 3-4′ long.
  • Tie a knot in at one end of the string.
  • Place the string in the gullet area of the saddle (where it would cover the horse’s spine) with the knot sticking out in front of the pommel.
  • Saddle your horse and tighten the girth. Make sure the knot is still in front of the pommel and the string is centered over the horse’s spine. Girth your saddle up.
  • Mount your horse. While seated, try to pull the string through the saddle (from front to back).

How to interpret the results.

  • If the string slides through easily, your saddle has enough clearance.
  • If the string slides through with minor resistance, it’s probably fine. This could also be caused by the string catching on your saddle pad.
  • If you can pull the string through but it’s a bit hard to do so, you probably need to improve the padding under your saddle.
  • If you can’t pull the string through or it requires a lot of strength, you either need a drastic padding change or a different saddle.
How to measure seat size on an English saddle
Jan 6th, 2010 by admin

English and Western saddles come in different seat sizes. Of course, they aren’t measured the same way (that would be too easy). However, understanding seat size is critical to getting a saddle that fits!

Here’s how you measure the seat size on an English saddle.

  • Measuring the seat size on an English saddle is simple.

    Measuring the seat size on an English saddle is simple.

    Start measuring from the nail, or “button”, that is on either side of the pommel.

  • Extend the measuring tape from the button to the center of the cantle.
  • That’s it!

Tips:

  • Remember that seat depth impacts fit just as much as size. A 17″ saddle with a flat seat will ride “bigger” than a 17″ saddle with a deep seat. That’s why it’s important to try different saddles before buying.
  • In general, dressage saddles have deeper seats than jumping saddles. People often need to go up half an inch or an inch in size depending on the depth of the seat.
How to warm your horse’s bit before riding
Jan 4th, 2010 by admin
A metal bit can get extremely cold in the winter. Do your horse a favor and warm it up.

A metal bit can get extremely cold in the winter. Do your horse a favor and warm it up.

Winter riding is exhilarating and fun — but to start your ride of right, you should always warm your horse’s bit before you put it in his mouth. Think about how uncomfortable it is for them to have an ice cold bit in their mouths! When your barn is 20 degrees, so is your metal bit.

There are several ways to take the cold edge off a metal bit.

  • Warm the bit in your hands. It doesn’t take long before it’s at least not freezing cold.
  • Dunk the bit in a bucket of warm water. I generally heat up water to soak beet pulp and I put the bit in with the dry shreds. The result is a bit that’s warm and tasty!
  • Bring the bit into your car and put it in front of the heater.
  • Use a hackamore or bitless bridle! I rode bitless for years and it sure made winter riding more comfortable for my horse.
  • Choose a rubber or plastic bitting material such as a Happy Mouth bit.
  • You can even buy bit warmers, although that seems a “bit” much!
How to Adjust a Standing Martingale
Jan 1st, 2010 by admin
A properly adjusted martingale will only affect a horse when it flings its head back.

A properly adjusted martingale will only affect a horse when it flings its head back.

The standing martingale is a piece of tack that first gained prominence in the hunt field. It’s sole purpose is to keep a horse from flinging its head back and hitting the rider in the face. A standing martingale therefore should only come into play when a horse raises its head well above the normal level of control.

When out foxhunting, this can be an issue when you are galloping and jumping over hilly terrain. You don’t want to be smacked in the face when your horse makes that extra effort to jump a big stone wall while going up hill. Sometimes you have a horse that uses head flipping as an evasion. I had a mare like this: when she first came off the race track she would invert and throw her head back so fast it was amazing. Putting a standing martingale on her (until she learned she wasn’t a giraffe) was an act of preservation.

Most standing martingales rarely see the hunt field. They are widely used in the hunter ring (over fences, never on the flat) mostly because I think people like the way they look. I certainly can’t imagine a show hunter flinging its head up.

Heres an example of a standing martingale thats adjusted too short. It is already restricting the horses head.

Here's an example of a standing martingale that's adjusted too short. It is already restricting the horse's head.

The problem lies in the fact that many standing martingales are incorrectly adjusted. Namely, they are too short and restrict the horse’s head and neck position. I think that’s because many people misunderstand the use of the standing martingale. Rather than using it as a safety device, people try to use them to control their horse’s head set and create a “frame.”

How to attach and adjust a standing martingale.

  • A standing martingale attaches on one end to the girth and on the other end to the nose band or cavesson of the bridle. The strap is held in place by a either a breastplate or a neckstrap.
  • With your horse standing calmly and at rest, check to see if the slack of the martingale (from the noseband to
    There should be enough slack in the martingale strap to easily bring it to the horses jaw or throat latch.

    There should be enough slack in the martingale strap to easily bring it to the horse's jaw or throat latch.

    the connection on the breastplate) is long enough that you can easily raise it up to the horse’s jaw.

  • Make sure that the length of strap from the breastplate to the girth is not dangling. If it’s too long, it could potential trap a horse’s leg.

Tips and Warnings

  • Standing martingales should ONLY be connected to conventional nosebands; never attach one to a drop nose band or a figure 8.
  • Make sure your noseband is not too low on your horse’s head. If the noseband is too low and the horse snaps its head back it can damage the bone and cartilage of the nose.
  • Standing martingales are not a substitute for training. Head carriage and submission to the bit are achieved by training that strengthens and supples your horse; not by tying its head down.

Video demonstration:

This is a useful demonstration of how to adjust a standing martingale.

How to grow out your horse’s tail
Dec 13th, 2009 by admin

Some horses have beautiful long tails naturally. Others need some help. And no, I’m not talking about tail extensions.

Taking proper care of your horse’s tail can make a big difference.

Instructions:

  • Make sure your horse’s nutritional needs are covered. Feeding a complete feed, or adding a multivitamin, can help ensure that your horse has the nutrients he or she needs. Feeding flax seed, or a flax-based supplement, often helps make a horse’s mane, tail and coat shinier because they add Omega 3 fatty acids to their diet.
  • Touch the tail as little as possible. Daily brushing is the last thing you should do.
  • In fact, put away your combs and brushes! The best way to detangle your horse’s tail is by hand, otherwise you risk breaking the fragile hairs. This is especially true when the tail is dry.
  • Use a conditioner or detangler to help get knots out. You can leave it in the tail for added conditioning. Lots of people swear by Shapleys MTG, others like regular conditions or Meka Tek Cell Rebuilder, I’ve even read about some off the wall home treatments such as bacon grease! If you’re looking for something from your medicine cabinet, baby oil isn’t a bad choice. You can use it in the winter to keep the hair from drying out.
  • Keep your horse’s dock, sheath or teats clean. If these areas are dirty, they can be itchy. You don’t want your horse to rub its tail.
  • Protect your horse’s tail (and the rest of his coat) from the sun by using textaline fly sheets. They cover the top of the dock.
  • When you ship your horse, put a tail wrap on. Even horses that don’t normally rub their tails will sometimes do this when trailered, maybe because they end up leaning on the butt bar. A neopene tail wrap can really save his tail from damage.
  • Some people braid the tail or put it up with strips of cloth or in a tail bag. I wouldn’t recommend that you try this in the summer, when your horse needs its tail, but lots of people put up their horse’s tails all winter.
How to braid a horse’s mane with a Spanish Braid
Dec 9th, 2009 by admin
A baroque horse with Running braid.

A baroque horse with Running braid.

Spanish, or running, braids are used on horse breeds where the manes are left long. This includes Baroque horses like Andalusians and Fresians, and breeds such as Arabians and Morgans who need to keep their manes long for breed shows but might also compete in hunters or dressage.

Whatever the reason, it is a lovely technique for keeping those flowing manes under control!

Instructions:

  • Start with a clean mane that has been combed until it’s knot free.
  • Dampen the mane to help with the braiding. Sometimes it’s helpful to use a spray on solution such as QuicBraid to help the braids hold better.
  • Begin your braid at the top of the horse’s mane near the poll or right behind the bridlepath.
  • Take three pieces of mane about 1/2″ wide. The first two passes are like a normal braid.
  • When you start to braid in the third strand, add more hair (another 1/2″) to the existing strand and braid it in.
  • Continue to add mane ONLY to the left hand strand and you will start to see the braid emerge at the bottom of the mane.
  • When you get to the end of your horse’s neck, continue braiding the mane into a “pigtail.”
  • Add some yarn into the braid and continue until the hair is too think to hold a secure braid.
  • Tie off braid and then fold the braided pigtail under the braid.
  • Tie off the braid by bringing one part of the string up through the braid and making a square knot with the bottom string.

Tips

  • If you braid too tightly, the braid will stretch when your horse lowers his head. Make the braid a bit loose but still secure.
  • Keep your hands close to the horse’s crest and directly below the part of the mane from which you are taking hair. This keeps the braid from stretching out.
  • If your horse has a really thick mane you can braid it down both sides.

Video Demonstration

How to use carrot stretches to limber up your horse
Dec 8th, 2009 by admin
Carrot stretches are an easy and fun way to stretch your horse.

Carrot stretches are an easy and fun way to stretch your horse.

Stretches help keep your horse supple, can prevent injuries and improve performance. “Carrot stretches” are an excellent way to encourage your horse to stretch. After all, most horses can be bribed by food!

Carrot Stretches are easy ways to stretch your horse’s neck and top line. They are something that you can incorporate into your grooming routine because they take just a few minutes.

  • Start by asking your horse to stretch sideways by holding the carrot to each side either along his barrel or back toward his hip. To achieve the stretch it’s important that your horse keeps his feet still and doesn’t move his body to get the carrot. He may not be able to reach all that way to his hip at first, so it’s okay if you work up to it. You can subtly adjust this stretch by having your horse reach toward his stifle or elbow as well as his hip. This movement stretches your horse’s neck and shoulder.
  • Next ask your horse to bring his head down toward his chest by holding a piece of carrot there. This movement stretches your horse’s poll, crest and neck muscles, and opens the space between the base of the skull and the first vertebra (atlas).
  • Finally hold the carrot between your horse’s forelegs near the girth area. This helps stretch his topline, crest and withers.

Tips & Warnings

  • It’s better to stretch after your horse is warmed up. It’s not a good idea to stretch cold, tight muscles.
  • The best time to stretch is after you’ve warmed down.
  • When you start a stretch, first ask your horse for only a part stretch. If he does okay with it then you can extend it.
  • Start with easy stretches, then work up to harder ones.
  • As your horse gets more flexible, increase the length of the stretches so that they hold the position for 30 seconds.
  • Don’t forget to stretch both sides of the horse.

Video Demonstration

How to make a horse hair bracelet
Dec 3rd, 2009 by admin
Theres no guarantee that your bracelet will turn out as nicely as this one from www.highhopesdesigns.com, but it can be a inspiration.

There's no guarantee that your bracelet will turn out as nicely as this one from www.highhopesdesigns.com, but it can be a inspiration.

Horse hair jewelry is a great gift for equestrians and a fun way to honor your horse.

Bracelets and necklaces are not easy to make but with some practice you can make gifts for your friends and yourself.

So, how do you start?

Instructions:

  • Collect tail hair from the horse(s) you want to use. If you have horses with different colored tails you can braid them into a pattern!
  • Take the hair from the bottom of the tail bone. You need to take long ones. You’ll need about an inch in diameter. Put a rubber band on them (a braiding band works well).
  • Next, wash the hair with shampoo. It’s really important that the hair be very clean; you may need to wash it more than once. Don’t use conditioner on it!
  • Get supplies at a craft store such as Michael’s, AC Moore, or JoAnn’s Fabrics. They sell jewelry findings that you can use to attach the ends.
  • When the hair is dry, take carpet thread that matches the color and wrap it tightly. Then use E-600 glue around the thread to help it hold.
  • Decide what kind of braid you would like to try. Round braids work well. If you’ve ever braided a lanyard, you will find the same techniques work. Here’s a site with instructions.
  • Attach the finding to the end of the bound hair. Put some glue in the finding, insert the hair and then squeeze it shut with small pliers. You should put a cloth around the finding before you close it to prevent the pliers from scratching the metal.
  • Tie the end to something sturdy so you can pull on the strands while you braid and help keep the braid tight.
  • When you reach the end, wrap it with thread, seal it with glue and add the second finding.

Tips

  • Make sure to keep the braid snug but not too tight as it will kink.
  • Trim any hairs that stick out of the braid with scissors.
  • You can spray the braid with hair spray to make it stick together better and make it shiny.
How to tie a stock tie for foxhunting or dressage
Nov 27th, 2009 by admin

A properly tied stock tie looks elegant and is functional, too!

There’s nothing like a stock tie to make an accomplished equestrian feel like they are all thumbs.

After years of cheating by using pre-tied stock ties, I took the plunge and bought one that required the ability to tie a square knot in a mirror and have it come out looking elegant.

The process gets easier when you think of it as tying two square knots. It’s also helpful if you use a tie that has some stiffness (think starch). Don’t forget to have a good quality stock pin on hand with a hardened steel shaft. The cheap ones will bend as you try to push them through the layers of fabric which is most annoying!

Click on the image below to go to the source and see it full screen.

How to tie a stock tie.

Video demonstration:

How to make Quarter Marks
Nov 23rd, 2009 by admin
Checkerboard patterns are traditional quartermarks.

Checkerboard patterns are traditional quartermarks.

Quarter marks are the patterns that are back combed into your horse’s hair, generally placed over the hind quarters. They are an elegant addition to your show preparations.

Traditional patterns are checkerboards, diamonds and sharks teeth but there are stencils available that allow a host of different shapes.

Sharksteeth in a quartermarkInstructions

  • Start with a clean horse.
  • Spray the hindquarters before you start combing. Some people use water; but the pattern will hold better if you mix in some hair spray, fly spray or something similar.
  • Brush the hair on the hind quarters toward the tail with a stiff body brush.
  • Take a fine toothed comb, cut to the size of the pattern you want to make downward through the damp hair to make the marks.
  • To make Sharks teeth brush the hair downward with a body brush then do sweeping movements toward the tail to create the effect.
  • Each new brush stroke is a hatched area, and the diagrams follow on from each other.
  • If you use a stencil, place it on your horse. Then take a clean, stiff brush and brush the hair straight up.
  • Without moving the stencil, brush the hair backward against the way it naturally lies.
  • Remove the stencil and spritz with spray gel again to “set” the mark.
  • Finish up by brushing down all the hairs away from the stencil so it doesn’t look framed.

Video demonstration

»  Substance: WordPress   »  Style: Ahren Ahimsa
© Copyright Elizabeth Goldsmith 2009.